*English version, please scroll down.*

文/FoodSeason食材策展團隊

仁愛圓環巷弄轉身，在安和路靜巷中穿梭可能不小心錯過的新晉餐廳TABLEAU，三月甫開幕至今，已培養出一批懂吃的熟客再三回訪。餐廳招牌以紅瓦刻字，木黑外牆僅掛上一橘紅箱燈，皆透露出主廚的低調與樸真氣息。

FoodSeason食材策展團隊開始採訪前，主廚Craig還在半開放的廚房忙進忙出，從內場的備餐考究到外場的調整流程，他關注細節的模樣，讓我們看見隱身其中「好還要更好」的信念與執著。


＊主廚楊子毅Craig Yang

當代法式辦桌・楊子毅的夢想實行之所

Q：TABLEAU以「當代法式辦桌」為主軸，是檯面上法式餐廳沒有出現過的嶄新概念，可以和我們介紹什麼是「當代法式辦桌」？

Craig：TABLEAU，在法文中是桌面也有圖畫之意，我們希望呈擺於餐桌上的美食如同一幅畫卷，以山珍海味構成藝術饗宴，與用餐者相遇，這名稱也蘊含著「當代」「法式」「辦桌」三者融合的意象，概念來自我的歷練和家學薰陶。我出身總鋪師家族第三代，外公和爸爸都是獨當一面的大廚，好食材是料理的初衷，因此，在成立TABLEAU時我把它當作生涯的一個里程碑，目標是在台灣總鋪師家學文化與自己的法餐背景下，創作出滿足當代饕客味蕾的料理。

極致職人精神・法餐與辦桌共通的匠心堅持

Q：「當代法式辦桌」落到具體呈現上，食客能在TABLEAU獲得什麼樣特別的體驗？

Craig：辦桌和法餐共同的理念，都是講究基本功的養成，沿襲家族料理職人精神，我至今仍然堅持每天到市場親選食材，確認是否新鮮與富含當季變化，這是我很在意的一個點。回到自己的廚房中，我會融入法國料理的烹飪方式，來執行辦桌料理的特色，全面展現食材純粹的魅力。在服務上，TABLEAU講究一種充滿人情味的款待方式，這是從辦桌文化的熱情溫暖而來，我們結合法餐講菜的環節，透過和客人一一對談，去闡述每道料理創意背後的故事，我很珍惜這種與客人之間緊密的互動。

＊餐廳外觀

高CP值的背後，是米其林餐廳培養的在地國際視野

Q：TABLEAU的套餐價格，屢屢得到食客驚奇不敢相信的反應，能和我們談談在現今餐飲市場紅海，當初這個價格帶是怎麼被決定的？

Craig：全球化的浪潮過後，「愈在地愈國際」的精神逐步走向大眾視野，包含在米其林RAW餐廳的訓練中，我也不斷地接收這樣的料理挑戰與創作理念。創立TABLEAU時，我想對標的不僅是台灣餐飲市場，而是想放眼國際，去思考已恢復自由飛行的疫情後時代，應該怎麼定位自己。以台灣人最熟悉的日本為例，我發現即使在東京這樣的大型國際化城市，不乏食材豐富，價位親和(1萬日幣以內) 的精緻料理，這樣的餐廳未必是米其林，但絕對讓消費者吃得舒服感到物超所值，我想在台灣提出這樣的可能性。

Q：是否能請您分享在RAW餐廳工作的故事？有沒有哪個環節讓您最印象深刻呢？

Craig：米其林餐廳對料理技術的嚴格要求與高標準，我就不再贅述，印象最深的除了技藝的精進，再來就是人，和廚藝精湛同事們共事的機會。RAW時期我會爭取親力親為製作員工餐，這對我來說是一個很好的練習平台以及測試的機會，畢竟要同時滿足那麼多專業廚師的刁鑽胃口，以及看過大風大浪的服務人員，沒有那麼容易，也讓我從不同角度看待食材，賦予額外的價值。

 

傳統和創新本是一脈相承

Q：我們發現套餐中有些料理並未出現在SET MENU桌卡上，這是有特別的用意嗎？另外也請和我們聊聊首季菜單的概念發想！

Craig：傳統和創新可以走在同一條路上，在我身上體會尤深，因為自家淵源，這兩者的融合彷彿是自然成形的。餐廳既主打「當代法式辦桌」，我想把這個概念進行到底，去構思料理風貌。辦桌菜常會有不在菜單上，給食客意想不到的小驚喜；而法餐往往是品嚐主廚精心設計的菜式。我在TABLEAU試著重塑建構傳統法餐框架，打造不一樣的體驗。

＊山珍海味都將在TABLEAU的料理畫卷中呈現

＊風味缽從左至右：香料油、醃漬蘿蔔、酥炸蕎麥、炸馬鈴薯絲、醃漬蛋黃。循時令調整。

未在菜單上的五小缽，就是我放在第一道菜式的創新嘗試。五種相異的口感打開口味的多樣性，讓用餐者可自主搭配隨季節調整的Ravioli，豐富的變化甚至可以延伸至後續所有菜式，兩色麵餃則以宴席中寓意良好的紅白湯圓為靈感，是餐前的趣味小巧思。

＊在西式餐具中加進紅色筷箸，除了符合「當代法式辦桌」主題，也讓食客吃得更自在愜意。

法式手法重現的魷魚螺肉蒜，佐以台灣人熟悉熱愛的雞湯。隨後我拆解辦桌全雞料理做為主菜，配上用雞骨雞冠熬煮的醬汁。這發想源於我觀察辦桌菜全雞上桌時，最好吃的部位只有少數人得以享用，沒吃到雞腿的人心裡總有種意難平，所以我想給TABLEAU的每位客人都能完整獨享完整全雞。

＊透抽 | 法式燉菜 | 雞湯                           

＊紅玉雞 | 脂味肝醬 | 油封甜椒

單點料理中有一道巧克力豬蜜汁排骨幾乎是人人必點，這來自外公父親每年都會做的的家傳秘方，是一道專屬的味蕾記憶。食材也特選與伊比利豬同級的台灣巧克力豚腱肉，吃起來鮮嫩多汁無豬腥味，我希望把這道菜的美好滋味傳遞下去，成為TABLEAU的亮點，讓更多人踏上法式辦桌的味覺旅程。

＊單點熱門菜色《巧克力豬蜜汁排骨》使用限量供應、吃可可豆長大的巧克力豚，是與伊比利豬同等級的台灣精品豬。

 

Dream Big！楊子毅展望下一步

Q：是否能分享創立餐廳後的心情，以及想像TABLEAU未來會是什麼模樣？

Craig：料理是我畢生熱忱所在，也期待用餐者將TABLEAU作為Fine Dining的入門，在這裡不用負擔高額的餐費，依然可以獲得完整的法餐體驗。另外我們開始推廣客製化服務，可依客人需求特製料理，讓客人無論是再訪或包場都能擁有更多變化性。未來也將持續更新單點菜色，請持續關注TABLEAU的官方IG，我們將即時更新最新資訊給大家。

＊以法餐形式重現辦桌料理

採訪過後，主廚和我們透露下半年將有聯手餐會的誕生，讓我們一起期待他精彩的演繹！

 

 

TABLEAU by Craig Yang

106台北市大安區安和路一段78巷33號

No. 33, Ln. 78, Sec. 1, Anhe Rd., Da’an Dist., Taipei City 106, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

Lunch 12:00 - 14:30

Dinner 18:00 - 22:30

(Sunday & Monday Closed)

*訂位連結*

 

TABLEAU OWNER CHEF
楊子毅(Craig Yang) 主廚介紹

・米其林二星餐廳RAW前核心團隊成員(2018-2021)協力主廚端出超過 70 萬道菜色

・台灣Royal Host區域料理長

・歐洲頂級餐廚德廚集團專屬私宴主廚

・總鋪師世家第三代

 

圖：特別感謝 @foodpor.nstudio @jerryy_studio惠賜照片。

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【TABLEAU】A Contemporary French Banquet of Its Own, Interview with Chef Craig Yang

 

Author/FoodSeason Food Creator

 

Turn around the alleys of Ren'ai roundabout and wander through the quiet lanes of Anhe Road to find the newly opened restaurant, TABLEAU, where might be easily to miss out! Since its opening in March, it has cultivated a group of discerning diners who return repeatedly. The restaurant's sign, carved on red tiles, and its black wooden exterior with only one wall mounted orange-red lighting box, exude the chef's understated and genuine qualities.

Before the FoodSeason food curation team started the interview, Chef Craig was busy in the semi-open kitchen, meticulously preparing dishes and adjusting procedures. His attention to detail showed a commitment to excellence, revealing his belief in striving for perfection.


＊Chef Craig Yang

Contemporary French Banquet: Craig Yang's Dream in Action

Q：TABLEAU focuses on ‘Contemporary French Banquet’ a brand new idea that has never appeared in traditional French restaurants. Could you introduce us to what a ‘Contemporary French Banquet’ entails?

Craig：TABLEAU, in French, means "tabletop" or "picture." We hope that the cuisine presented on the table resembles a painting, with delicacies from mountains and seas composing an artistic feast, to greet diners. This name also embodies the fusion of "contemporary," "French," and "banquet," derived from my experiences and background. I come from a family of chefs, with my grandfather and father being accomplished chefs. Using high quality ingredients has always been the essence of cooking. Therefore, when establishing TABLEAU, I saw it as a milestone in my career, aiming to create dishes that satisfy the taste buds of contemporary gourmets within the cultural heritage of Taiwanese chefs and my background in French cuisine.

Exemplary Craftsmanship: The Shared Dedication of French Cuisine and Taiwan Banquet

Q：In terms of the concrete presentation of ‘Contemporary French Banquet,’ what unique experiences can diners expect at TABLEAU?

Craig：The philosophy shared by Taiwan Banquet and French cuisine is the emphasis on mastering the basics. Inherited from the spirit of family cooking artisans, I still insist on personally selecting ingredients at the market every day to ensure freshness and seasonal variation. This is something I care about very much. Back in my kitchen, I incorporate French cooking techniques to execute the characteristics of banquet dishes, fully showcasing the pure charm of ingredients. In terms of service, TABLEAU emphasizes a hospitable approach full of warmth, derived from the enthusiasm of Taiwan banquet culture. We combine the elements of French cuisine and engage with guests individually, explaining the creative stories behind each dish. I cherish this intimate interaction with guests.

＊restaurant appearance

 

Behind the Good Value for the Spending: Cultivating a Local-International Vision from Michelin Restaurant RAW

Q：The prices of TABLEAU's set menu often surprise diners. Could you discuss how this pricing was determined in today's competitive restaurant market?

Craig：After the wave of globalization, the spirit of "More Local, More International" gradually entered the public view. Including my training at Michelin-starred RAW restaurant, I have constantly absorbed such cooking challenges and creative concepts. When founding TABLEAU, I aimed not only at the Taiwan catering market but also envisioned internationally. Considering examples from Japan, a country familiar to Taiwanese people, even in large international cities like Tokyo, there are exquisite cuisines with abundant ingredients and affordable prices (within 10,000 Japanese yen). These restaurants may not have Michelin stars, but they definitely provide customers with comfort and value for true. I wanted to propose this possibility in Taiwan.

Q：Could you share your experience working at RAW restaurant? Is there any aspect that impresses you mostly?

Craig：Besides the rigorous requirements and high standards for cooking techniques at Michelin restaurant, the most memorable aspect, besides skill improvement, is the people. Working with skilled colleagues at RAW left a deep impression on me. During my time there, I strived to personally prepare staff meals, which served as a good practice platform and testing opportunity for me. After all, meeting the demanding appetites of many professional chefs and seasoned service staff is not easy. It also allowed me to view ingredients from different perspectives, giving them additional value.

 

Traditional and Innovative—Two Sides of the Same Coin

Q：We noticed that some dishes do not appear on the set menu. Is there a special intention behind this? Also, could you discuss the concept and inspiration behind the first-season menu?

Craig：Tradition and innovation can be two sides of the same coin, which I deeply understand because of my background. The fusion of these two elements seems natural to me. As the restaurant focuses on ‘Contemporary French Banquet,’ I wanted to fully realize this concept and conceptualize the style of cuisine. Banquet dishes often have surprises not listed on the menu, giving diners unexpected delights. French cuisine, on the other hand, often involves tasting carefully designed dishes by the chef. At TABLEAU, I am trying to reshape the traditional framework of French cuisine and create a different dining experience.

The five assorted small dishes, not listed on the menu, represent my innovative approach to the first course. These five distinct flavors offer a diverse range of tastes, allowing diners to pair them with Ravioli that can be adjusted seasonally, and the richness of this variety can extend to all subsequent dishes. The duo-colored dumplings are inspired by the auspicious red and white tangyuan often served at banquets, adding a playful touch to the appetizer.

＊Incorporating red chopsticks into French style tableware not only aligns with the theme of "contemporary French table service" but also enhances the diners' comfort and enjoyment.

The French-style representation of garlic-flavored squid and conch paired with Taiwanese-style chicken soup caters to local tastes. Following this, I deconstruct the table-served whole chicken into the main course, accompanied by a sauce made from chicken bones and combs. This idea stemmed from observing that the most coveted parts of the table-served chicken are often enjoyed by only a few, leaving others feeling somewhat disappointed. Therefore, I aim to ensure that every guest at TABLEAU can fully enjoy the entire chicken.

＊Squid | Vegetable Stew | Chicken Essence                           

＊Ruby Chicken | Umami Sauce | Confit Sweet Peppers

Almost everyone opts for the chocolate pork ribs, a dish rooted in my family's annual tradition, as it holds a special place in their taste memories. Using Taiwan's premium chocolate pork shank, which matches the quality of Ibérico pork, ensures a tender, juicy, and non-gammy taste. I hope to pass on the delightful flavor of this dish and make it a highlight of TABLEAU, inviting more people to embark on a journey of ‘Contemporary French Banquet’ service dining.

＊The popular à la carte dish "Signature Bone-on Glazed Pork Chop". "Piggy Chokoreto",which is raised on cocoa beans and is on par with Iberico pork as a premium Taiwanese pork.

 

Dream Big! Craig Yang's Vision for the Future

Q：Could you share your feelings after founding TABLEAU and your imagination of what TABLEAU will be like in the future?

Craig：Cooking is my lifelong passion, and I hope diners see TABLEAU as an entry point into fine dining. Here, they can enjoy a complete French dining experience without the burden of high meal costs. We have also begun promoting customized services, allowing guests to request special dishes according to their needs, whether for revisiting or private events, providing more variability. We will also continue to update the à la carte menu, so please continue to follow TABLEAU's official Instagram account for the latest updates.

After the interview, Chef Craig revealed plans for joint dining events in the second half of the year, so let's look forward to the surprise from the chef soon!

 

TABLEAU by Craig Yang

No. 33, Ln. 78, Sec. 1, Anhe Rd., Da’an Dist., Taipei City 106, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

Lunch 12:00 - 14:30

Dinner 18:00 - 22:30

(Sunday & Monday Closed)

*Booking link* 

 

TABLEAU OWNER CHEF

Craig Yang

・Former core member of Michelin two-star RAW restaurant (2018-2021), contributing to over 700,000 dishes served

・Regional Head Chef at Taiwan Royal Host

・Exclusive private event chef for the European top culinary group

・Third generation of a family of chefs